WIP Week: Promethium Reactorum XIII

CUTTING PLASTIC! I promised in an earlier post that I would share my trick for cutting plastic terrain parts.  This is especially important for complex connections between board layouts. For the Promethium Reactorum, I had several complicated connections and I wanted to make them fit like puzzle pieces, or at least as close to this ideal as possible. 

It starts with a simple part like the one above. I used this extra part as an example, and so I wasn't especially careful, but the process is exactly as described below.  

The most important tool you will need is a reciprocating handheld saw like the Milwaukee Hackzall. The blade I use is very short (2.5") and can be used for anything from wood to metal (I've even used it for cutting the copper pipe for the Reactorum table).

The second key ingredient is a stack of several layers of foam insulation board. In this picture I was using the slightly more expensive 'hobby board', but the cheaper stuff also works (it's a bit softer, but gets shredded a bit more easily). You want the stack to be at least as deep as the blade height, and so that is why I used a short blade (less foam). Also note that I usually use a straight edge (like the edge of a foam core board) to spray out a guide line for cutting. I use black spray paint to do this rather than a marker or pen, which can be difficult to get a guideline on a part covered in raised or recessed details.

Once you have the foam in place, make the cut! I usually have no problem with melting plastic edges, and the saw generally cuts right through. I've never had any trouble with polyurethane or the plastics used by citadel/GW. 

IMPORTANT: when cutting with one of these type of saws, you will have the best control when the blade guard is pressed firmly down into the surface on which you are cutting.  This keeps the saw from recoiling and getting stuck into the part. 

Happy Cutting, and NO severed fingers allowed.